LOCKSTEED™ DiscGuard

Two people can lift a bike regardless of what's locked to what, and any lock that claims otherwise is lying to you. What the DiscGuard does is take away the quiet. Lifting a silent bike into a van takes thirty seconds and nobody looks up. Lifting one that's screaming at 110dB in a public street is a different job, and most thieves won't take it on. That's the honest version.

A grinder gets through anything eventually. It's also loud, throws sparks, and takes time, which are the three things a thief has least of. No lock on the market survives a determined attack with power tools. What a lock does is make your bike the slower, louder, more visible option so they move to the next one.

This is the most common complaint about alarm disc locks generally, so it's a fair question. Press the lock down firmly against the disc before you insert the key and it seats the mechanism properly. Most people get the knack within the first few uses. If the alarm does sound, the key stops it immediately.

The shock sensor is calibrated for impact and movement, not vibration or noise. Wind, passing traffic and a neighbouring bike shouldn't trigger it. Fit it firmly so there's no play between the lock and the disc, because a loose lock rattling on the rotor is the usual cause of nuisance alarms.

110dB, which is roughly a chainsaw at close range. Loud enough to be heard across a carpark and loud enough that anyone working on your bike immediately has an audience. Don't hold it next to your ear when testing it.

The 7mm pin passes through the drilled holes on standard motorcycle and scooter brake rotors, front or rear. Check the thickness of your rotor and the diameter of the holes. If you're not sure, message us with your bike model and we'll tell you before you buy.

Everyone worries about this and it's why the hi-vis reminder cord is in the box. It loops from the lock up to your handlebar so you physically cannot get on the bike without seeing it hanging there. Use it every time. That's what it's for.

Batteries are included and fitted, and a set lasts up to six months. They're standard LR44 cells, available anywhere, and swapping them takes seconds. No charging cable, no waiting for it to charge, no lock sitting useless on a bench. If you notice the alarm behaving oddly or sounding weak, replace the batteries first.

Yes. It's built to live outdoors on a bike that lives outdoors. Keep the keyway clear of grit and give the cylinder a light spray of lubricant a couple of times a year, the same as you'd do with any outdoor lock.

Either works. The front is more visible, which matters if you want the lock seen and the bike skipped before a thief gets close. The rear is harder for a thief to reach and works better if you're also chaining the bike. Plenty of riders run one on each.

You can, and some of them are fine for a while. The failures we see reported in rider forums are cheap cylinders that seize so the keys stop turning, springs that break and leave the lock stuck on the bike, and alarms that go off constantly until the owner takes the battery out. The DiscGuard comes with a lifetime warranty on the lock, the alarm and the mechanism, and 90 days to change your mind. If it fails, you're not buying another one.

Insurance replaces the bike. It doesn't cover your excess, your no-claim bonus, the weeks you spend off the road, the accessories that aren't covered, or the setup you spent two years getting right. And it doesn't do anything for the attempted theft that leaves you with a ripped ignition and a repair bill on a bike you still own. This is the layer that stops it happening in the first place.